inspiring story

I wouldn't change what happened to me, because then I wouldn't have this chance in front of all of you. This chance to embrace moere people than I ever could have with two arms. I was born to surf, this is why I wake up at the crack of dawn every day. This is why I endure belly brashes, reef cuts, muscles so tired they feel like noodles. And I've learned that life is a lot like surfing.when you get caught in the impact zone, you need to get right back up. Because you never know what's over the next wave. And if you have faith, anything is possible, anything at all.